 
  The part of the house which seems to generate the most confusion is the  section of the roof which juts up and out from the rest of the roof  line. This has also been one of the slowest areas to finish building.  When it's finished, the area beneath will be a 2nd story porch (actually  it's about five feet above the second story). Although it's covered by  the "fly-away" portion of the roof, it will still receive a certain  amount of windblown rain, so I've been working on creating a means of  drainage. I began by including two scuppers in the layout of the parapet  wall on the East side which will be cut out later when we know the  precise dimensions of the actual scuppers. Then I made a crude tapered  jig which I used to rip four foot lengths of 2x4's and 2x6's to taper  evenly. I started with pieces that tapered from 1" to nothing. It would  have been easy enough to create an even slope from West to East, but  this would have meant that water would flow evenly towards the entire  parapet wall, and would pool up where there was no scupper. So I began  by sloping the floor along the bottom of the wall. This solved the  problem of water pooling along the wall's edge, but it meant that at the  East end of each joist, the desired height to achieve was slightly  different. So with the rest of my first batch of shims, I cut off either  a little or a lot off the thin end so that the height matched the shim  at the edge. In the photos you can see the resulting wave pattern of  shims. Although the shims all came out to different distances from the  wall depending on how much I had to cut off the thin end, each is  exactly the same thickness which made it easy to extend the slope. I  just ripped a second batch of shims that tapered from 2" down to 1" and  butted the 1" end to the already attached shim. Because the shims are  structural in the sense that they will in effect become the bearing  portion of the floor joists when I lay plywood down, I glued each shim  before I nailed it. I'm not sure if this is necessary, but it certainly  seems like a good idea and the small extra step seems well worth it. I  also had to use a large nailset to drive the framing nails deep enough  into the taller 3" to 2" shims so that the nails would catch deeply  enough into the joist. Once the subfloor is down I'll apply flat roofing  material ("flat roof" refers to roofs which are in actuality only  nearly flat, 1/4" per foot is the minimal slope). On top of that I'll  put down sections of decking (which won't be nailed down since that  would puncture the roofing), rainwater will pass through the decking,  run down the roofing material to the scupper, and leave the building. Of  course, the entire process of shimming will have to be repeated in  reverse in order to create a deck which is level on top of a roof which  slopes! Now that it's basically just me working, the immensity of the  work remaining to be done is pretty daunting. But I'm enjoying the  problem solving, and seeing real progress day by day. 
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| In the above photo you can see the word "SCUPPER" scrawled on the bottom  plate, and see that the shims along the wall and on the joist tapper  away to nothing at this spot. | 
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| By notching the shims around the columns, I've created a place to nail the plywood, which will also wrap around the columns. | 
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| Here you can see clearly the "wave" pattern in the layout of the shims. |